Noticias1

UIAA sends condolences to Graftiaux family
www.chloegraftiaux.com The UIAA is saddened to learn of the death of Chlo Graftiaux, who died on August 21 while descending from the summit along the South Face of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif. We would like to express our condolences to her family and friends. She was a very kind person and a great climber, said Pavel Shabalin, president of the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission. In January of this year, Chlo Graftiaux attained a new peak when she won the Lead event at an Ice Climbing World Cup competition in Val Daone, Italy. Chlo was fourth overall for the season. Chloe was an extremly inspiring person. She competed in ice and sport climbing and was extremly sucessful, remembered Ice Climbing Commission member, Urs Stoecker. Besides this she also was a strong summer and winter alpinist. It showed me that such a combination is possible although I thought it was not! But most importantly, besides her superhuman performances she was still an extremly nice person with a big heart and a never ending smile! She will always live on by her impressive and nice spirit! The 23-year-old Belgian also won the overall bronze in the 2010 Bouldering World Cup - and captured the Belgian Lead title on various occasions. Out of competition, she challenged herself on the real ice found on Super Couloir on Mont Blanc and other famous icefalls, such as Polar Circus in Canada. In winter she carried out a series of impressive steep ski descents, and accomplished long rock routes - up the smooth limestone Verdon Gorge in France and the rough granite in America's Yosemite. (with input from PlanetMountain.com)

Plans announced to reduce environmental impact
image: Mark Richey On the occasion of World Environment Day (June 5), the UIAA highlighted its commitment by announcing plans for a Mountain Protection label. The UIAA wants to make it easier for mountaineers to minimise their impact on the environment. For this reason the international federation is preparing the launch of a certification scheme. It foresees a label being awarded to tour operators and mountain recreation organisations which commit themselves to acting according to high mountain protection standards. As the basis for certification, the UIAA intends to use the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) guidelines Mountains and Tourism A Practical Guide to Managing the Environmental and Social Impacts of Mountain Tours and the accompanying Check List. Because they harbour so much of the worlds biodiversity, mountain regions are among the most vulnerable to the impacts of tourism, climate change, and global warming, says Linda McMillan, UIAA Mountain Protection Commission president and Deputy Vice-Chairman, IUCN-WCPA Mountains Biome. The Mountain Protection Label is designed to be an easy to use high-value tool that enables tour operators and their clients to minimise impacts on our precious mountain landscapes. Nepal support President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, and founder of the tour operator, Asian Trekking, Ang Tshering Sherpa is also enthusiastic about the plan: The Mountain Protection Label is a very exciting idea. Currently, we are investing a lot of time communicating with potential clients to convince them of our commitment to social, cultural and environmental protection. This Label will provide operators like us a convenient and trusted way to prove of our strong commitment to mountain protection ethics. According to the proposals under discussion in the UIAA, certified companies and organisations will be empowered to vote on the statutes and governance of the new label, receive invitations to Mountain Protection member events worldwide such as the forthcoming meeting on waste management organised by the American Alpine Club. There will also be occasions to come together with UIAA scientific partners and other label holders to discuss protection issues and research. image UNEP: World Environment Day World Environment Day, first held in 1972, is one of the principal vehicles through which the United Nations stimulates worldwide awareness of the environment and encourages political attention and action. This years theme is Many Species. One Planet. One Future. According to UNEP, it echoes the urgent call to conserve the diversity of life on our planet. A world without biodiversity is a very bleak prospect. Millions of people and millions of species all share the same planet.

UIAA partners with International Mountain Summit
The UIAA is a partner with the International Mountain Summit, a multi-faceted event that brings together some of the greatest climbers the world has ever known. The IMS, taking place this year from October 30 to November 7 in the South Tyrol town of Brixen/Bressanone, includes talks with such renowned mountaineers as Reinhold Messner, Kurt Diemberger and blind climber Andy Holzer. The IMS Congress will tackle issues such as risk taking and rescues, climbing ethics and women in mountaineering. The congress is divided into five themes: Mountains and Culture, Mountains and Safety, Mountains and People and Mountains and Organizations But the IMS is more than a talk shop and this is what makes it unique. It also includes walks with some of the top participating climbers, a boulder workshop and competition as well as mountain film screenings. UIAA spoke to one of the IMS founders, Alex Ploner, about the IMS and its partnership with the UIAA. UIAA: What is the main aim of the IMS? Alex Ploner: The goal of the International Mountain Summit is to be a platform for everyone who is in involved with the mountains in some way. Its an open platform, not connected to any party or with commitments to any association or federation. Its an open competition for ideas. New ways forward should be considered, existing state of affairs debated and even crazy approaches assessed so that mountain environments as habitats and as places to visit are preserved for all living things. IMS highlights and presents mountains in all of their facets. Ploner, UIAA President Mike Mortimer, UIAA staff member Gurdeepak Ahuja, UIAA Executive Director Ingo Nicolay (from left to right) UIAA: Why is it important for the IMS to be recognised by the UIAA? Alex Ploner: As the international federation, the UIAA has a long tradition and a lot of experience. Its important for us - a young company and a new platform to have access to the UIAA network, and to be seen as part of it. Were convinced that only through cooperation can we address the concerns of everyone in the mountains, and to discuss and resolve problems together. UIAA: Why do you think the world's mountaineering community needs to be united by an international federation like the UIAA? Alex Ploner: People living in the mountains, or who live for the mountains, or are travelling in the mountains are exposed to similar problems. Their expectations and fears are often the same, no matter where they come from. Organisations and platforms are required to bring people together to discuss these issues. We must become better acquainted with one another and talk about our fears, problems but mainly look for solutions. Mountain issues must become much more present in peoples minds, so that we can also understand ourselves better.

Updates to Diploma in Mountain Medicine
El Misti volcano (5,822 m) near Arequipa The widely respected qualification, Diploma in Mountain Medicine, was the focus of a joint meeting on August 8 of the UIAA Medical Commission, the International Society of Mountain Medicine (ISMM) and the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR). Dr David Hillebrandt, Vice President, UIAA Medical Commission, wrote the following report on the joint meeting: Unfortunately the UIAA Medical commission president Dr Buddha Basnyat from Nepal has been unable to attend the International Society of Mountain Medicine (ISMM) World Congress in Arequipa, Peru, due to visa problems. Despite his absence Buddha has been appointed President Elect of the ISMM. Our Medcom vice president Dr David Hillebrandt from the UK represented Buddha at the annual UIAA Medcom Meeting and also at a special joint meeting with the medical commissions of the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR) and the ISMM with whom we jointly run the increasingly recognised and popular Diploma of Mountain Medicine. The diploma is now run by 10 individual national organisations and we were particularly pleased to report that it has recently become established in Japan. The commissions discussed ways of improving its role in educating and maintaining standards of care by doctors and paramedics involved in mountain medicine throughout the world. We also reviewed our consensus guideline papers and plan to extend these coordinated by our corresponding member Thomas Kpper from Germany. Our meetings are only a small part of the five day ISMM Congress which brings together altitude, expedition and rescue doctors from around the world. The university venue in Arequipa, dominated by 5000m peaks, has been an ideal place for lectures on cutting edge research in to high altitude illness, practical sessions and workshops and most importantly for an informal exchange of ideas and a chance to make new friends for future cooperative ventures. We all look forward to closer working relationships between our UIAA Medcom, the ICAR Medcom, the ISMM and the Wilderness Medical Society (WMS) especially in producing more advice guidelines for both doctors and interested lay persons. Further work on frostbite and on mountaineering with pre existing cardiac and other long term conditions is planned for the next twelve months. This South American based meeting has opened up important dialogue between doctors on ways to minimise the risks of developing altitude illness on popular high altitude peaks such as Aconcogua. Education and screening methods are now being reviewed at an international level. It was felt that medicine and mountaineering should transcend international boundaries. Despite the current difficulties regarding the UIAA membership of Germany and Austria our committee was unanimous in welcoming the chance to continue working closely with our colleagues in these countries who are currently corresponding members. David Hillebrandt Diploma background The three bodies established minimal requirements for the Diploma in Mountain Medicine courses in 1997. The regulations are updated on a regular basis to reflect developments in mountain medicine, internet communications and to ensure that the high standard of the DiMM is maintained. HAPE and HACE At a separate meeting in Arequipa, the UIAA Medical Commission reviewed its recommendation papers, and heard a presentation on nutrition at high altitude. There are currently 20 advice and recommendation documents available for download on the UIAA website, ranging from AMS, HAPE and HACE to women going to altitude, people with pre-existing conditions going to the mountains and the effect of extremes of temperature on drugs. There are many German, Japanese, Spanish, Portuguese, Italian and Polish translations of the papers also available for download.

Ice Climbing World Cup 2011 schedule now online
image: Lukasz Warzecha The schedule for the 2011 Ice Climbing World Cup and World Championship events has been announced. The season will kick off on January 8 and 9 with Lead and Speed competitions in Chongsong, Korea. It will be the first time the UIAA Ice Climbing circuit includes a stop in Asia. The Korean Alpine Federation (KAF) will host the events. Ice Climbing is like a national sport in Korea, says Andrej Pecjak, a member of the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission.  Pecjak says the Koreans are professional and enthusiastic ice climbers. They have various man-made icefalls where people spend their free time by ice climbing. One can see numerous climbers of various ages from 16 to 80 years both men and women. Competitions of various types are held all over Korea more then one per weekend. Koreans in the Lead Top Korean athletes to watch for are Shin Woon Seon and Hee Yong Park, who won the final Lead competitions of the 2010 season in the women's and men's events respectively. After Korea, the World Cup heads to Europe and Italys Trentino valley, where the climbing elite will meet in Val Daone for the sixth year in a row from January 15-16. A week later, Switzerlands Saas Fee is the venue for another weekend of Lead and Speed. Ice Climbing has become a fixture on the Swiss alpine resorts agenda. Athletes not only have to tackle the ice walls, but the fishbowl atmosphere of climbing in an indoor car park! The first weekend of February sees the Ice Climbing community move camp to Busteni, Romania for a Speed competition and Lead World Championship. The two events are hosted by the Romanian Alpine Club. Russian Speed Russian athletes, who dominate the world in Speed, will have the chance to show off their quick moves in front of a home crowd in Kirov. The Russian city will host a Lead event and Speed World Championship from March 6 -8. Besides increasing the number of competitions, the UIAA is working toward showcasing Ice Climbing competitions in Sochi, Russia at the same time as the 2014 Winter Olympics. Ultimately, the UIAA is working toward Ice Climbings inclusion in the Winter Olympics. The event in Asia will certainly boost Ice Climbing as a sport, especially in Japan and China, and will also give us more credibility to achieve our Olympics goal, Pecjak adds. The UIAA launched the Ice Climbing World Cup in 2000. In Speed, athletes race up an ice face for the best time. In Lead competitions the climbers' ability to master a difficult route in a given time is tested. The UIAA is the International Olympic Committees recognised international federation for mountaineering and natural surface climbing. With more than 70 member organisations in 56 countries, the UIAA represents more than 1 million mountaineers and climbers worldwide.

Climbing gear maker DMM recalls camming device
Dragon Cam in size 6 (DMM) The Welsh company, DMM, is voluntarily recalling its Dragon Cam in size 6 (Product Code A7056A). According to the manufacturer, the problem originates from a structural defect in a raw material that is uniquely used to make a single component on the size 6 Dragon. Dragon Cams are mechanically spring loaded devices that can be inserted into cracks in the rock face to provide points of attachment for climbers or to safeguard their progress up a climb by allowing them to clip the rope to it via a carabiner. Further details on the Dragon Cam recall are available here. Information about all recalls can be found in the Risk Management section of the UIAA website. The Certified Equipment and Recalls page, added in late 2009, is a global one-stop-shopping point for climbers who wish to identify certified equipment as well as gear that has been recalled by the manufacturer. For climbers who want to know whether their equipment is up to snuff, access to the recalls page is one small part in making sure that their equipment remains suitable for climbing, explained David Custer of the UIAA Safety Commission at the launch of the online database. Before the UIAA recalls page existed, a climber would have to keep tabs on manufacturers, country specific recall sites, climbing websites, and climbing magazines. The time and the language ability required to find and verify recall information is now greatly reduced: at a glance, it is possible to view the global recall situation, Custer added. The UIAA Risk Management page also includes comprehensive information on standards for Safety Label holders or potential holders as well as a list of articles providing advice on equipment and climbing safely.

UIAA introduces new Executive Director
Ingo Nicolay It is with great pleasure that l am able to announce that the UIAA has engaged a new Executive Director. This person is Ingo Nicolay who joined the UIAA on July 1, 2010. Ingo comes to us with very impressive credentials. Not only in business but more importantly for us, as the president of the Heilbronn Section of the DAV, the German alpine club. In this capacity he has been the president of a club of 10,000 members. As such Ingo knows how to work with people in a not-for-profit organization where the challenge is to work with the motivated volunteers within the UIAA. At this time we must express our gratitude to Ingos predecessor, Judith Safford, for all of her hard work in the past and we wish her all the best in the future. I hope you will all join me in welcoming Ingo to the UIAA. Mike Mortimer President

Hepatitis/HIV risk for climbers?
image: Nikolaos Smalios What is the risk of blood-borne infections being transmitted to climbers? The UIAA Medical Commission attempts to answer this vital question in its latest advice paper. Sustaining cuts, abrasions or lacerations, typically on the fingertips in contact with holds, is a common occurrence in climbing, say the medical experts in the document, the most recent recommendations document to be published on the UIAA website. The Medical Commission reminds climbers of the seriousness of blood-borne infections, with millions of people suffering from HIV, and hundreds of millions with either hepatitis B or C. In spite of antiviral treatments presently available for HCV and HBV, acute or chronically affected individuals are often left untreated as they are asymptomatic until liver disease morbidity and mortally occur after 10 to 20 years. Once symptoms develop, antiviral drugs can only slow down the damage done, not reverse it. The medical experts warn that the transmission risk of HBV is known to be high among athletes in contact or collision sports, injecting drug users, those who live or visit endemic regions, and those giving first aid without appropriate protection. The number of blood borne infections transmitted is postulated to increase among athletes. Proper treatment Among the recommendations provided by the Medical Commission is the proper handling of participants with active bleeding: (They) should be removed from the event as soon as this is practical. Bleeding must be controlled and the wound cleansed with soap and water or antiseptic. Climbing holds with blood stains need to be cleaned and brushed, if necessary with antiseptic or disinfectant. They need to dry out before re-use. Italian, Portuguese documents Also added to the comprehensive list of recommendation papers that can be downloaded from the Commissions page are translations into Italian and Portuguese of the document on women going to altitude. There is also an Italian version of people with pre-existing conditions going to the mountains and the effect of extremes of temperature on drugs. Portuguese readers can also take a look at children at altitude. Many of the English-language documents have already been translated into German and Japanese. All of the texts provide essential tips on issues of importance to mountaineers or anyone going to high altitude. The UIAA Medical Commission is a global forum of doctors who meet regularly to up date information on medical issues related to the mountains.

Running on altitude - Skyrunning World Championships
image: ISF The first Skyrunning World Championships since the inauguration of the International Skyrunning Federation (ISF) are taking place throughout July and August across the Italian Alps. These events are held every four years alternating with the SkyGames, to be held in Spain in 2012. The ISF has applied for Observer membership to the UIAA. The ISF, in collaborating with the UIAA, wishes to share their many years of experience in the mountains, focusing in particular on safety and environmental issues and on developing international standards and guidelines, says ISF President, Marino Giacometti. The longstanding and well-established skyrunning race circuit, together with unique scientific data, represent a valuable contribution to further common ground and to safeguard mountain areas where events take place. A warm welcome is extended to all UIAA members to join the ISF in celebrating these events, Giacometti adds.

UIAA responds to Everest age restrictions
Everest, as seen from north (image: Carsten.nebel) The UIAA welcomes Chinas decision to ban people under 18 years of age from climbing Mount Everest. According to press reports and climbing and trekking agencies in Nepal, the decision was taken on June 10 by the Lhasa-based Chinese Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) - a branch of the Chinese Mountaineering Association, which is a UIAA Member. The move was welcomed by the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). While concerned about the restrictions on the freedom for exploration and human endeavour, the UIAA Access Commission applauds the actions of the CTMA and the NMA to protect minors by placing a lower age restriction on summiting Everest, said commission president Clare Bond. UIAA President, Mike Mortimer, also greeted the Chinese decision, saying young mountaineers lacked not only climbing experience, but also maturity. However, Mortimer is critical of the maximum age of 60 set by the CTMA. The issue of an upper age limit would seem to be very arbitrary and should be of concern, Mortimer said. Many climbers over the age of 60 have safely climbed Everest and other high peaks. Although medical considerations might present problems, the older climber often has a wealth of experience missing from younger people. Climbing for all ages For her part, Bond emphasises that the UIAA continues to encourage the active participation of all ages and members of society in climbing and mountaineering and the freedom to participate in the sport and enjoy the mountains. President of the UIAA Youth Commission, Anne Arran, added: Climbing Everest is a great challenge but not without risk and young climbers should not be pushed to undertake it. The UIAA co-ordinates around 10 youth events in the worlds mountains each year, and in 2011 plans to run a youth project in Nepal, which, according to Arran, will focus on an exchange of mountain skills between countries and supporting environmental and sport development challenges relevant to youth in Nepal. China and CTMA The CTMA is the official channel through which climbers must apply for permission to attempt peaks in Tibet. According to Lindsay Griffin of the British Mountaineering Council (BMC) writing on the BMC website, it is not yet unconfirmed if these age restrictions will also apply to other high peaks on the Himalayan divide. Griffin says the decision has been made in the aftermath of (Mays) Everest ascent by 13-year-old Jordan Romero. Nine years ago Nepali schoolboy Temba Tshiri became the youngest Everest summiteer at the age of 16 (and 17 days) but lost several toes and fingers to frostbite. This put pressure on the Nepalese government to ban young climbers, and in 2003 it set a minimum age of 16. However, there is currently no upper limit, Griffin added. There do seem to be loopholes in the Chinese regulations. In exceptional circumstances the CTMA may issue a permit to a mountaineer outside the declared age range. Applications will be considered from climbers outside this age span if they can provide a medical certificate showing they are fit enough to make the ascent, though it is believed that this is most likely aimed at climbers over 60.

New classification system for reporting injuries
The UIAA Medical Commission has released a new recommendation to improve the reporting of mountaineering injuries. image: Vid Pogachnik In the past, the expert panel says, objective reporting of the injury site and its severity varied according to the injury definition and methodology used. This led to different conclusions making inter-study comparisons difficult or impossible. The newly published paper describes the common protocol developed by the Medical Commission to report injuries in studies. It uses a single climbing grade reference that converts UIAA climbing grades into a standardised metric form. Spanish translations Also added to the comprehensive list of recommendation papers that can be downloaded from the Commissions page are translations into Spanish of the documents on health rules, altitude sickness, portable hyperbaric chambers, nutrition, travellers diarrhoea and water disinfection. Many of the English-language documents have already been translated into German and Japanese. All of the documents provide essential tips on issues of importance to mountaineers or anyone going to high altitude. The UIAA Medical Commission is a global forum of doctors who meet regularly to up date information on medical issues related to the mountains.

UIAA outlines cooperation with continental bodies
View from Nevado Pisco summit (image:Florian Ederer) The UIAA has informed the Pan-American Union of Mountaineering and Climbing (UPAME) of its efforts to recognise continental organisations. Present at UPAMEs recent General Assembly in Huaraz, Peru (May 29-30) was UIAA Vice President, Jordi Colomer. The General Assembly formally approved a request to ask the UIAA to recognise UPAME. Jos Moreano, speaking in the name of UPAMEs members of the UIAA, said that they wanted to be granted the same fee conditions as developing countries and receive a reduction. Colomer said a proposal had already been made to the UIAA Board for reductions to be given to some nations. Training Standards Colomer outlined the work of the UIAA commissions and members of the commissions, and spoke about the values of the international organisation. He highlighted the UIAAs Training Standards adding that the UIAA was planning to hold a course in Chile in the near future. At the meeting, UPAME delegates approved a proposal to hold the first Skyrunner Championships in in Costa Rica next year. The 2011 UPAME General Assembly will be held in Panama. UPAME is made up of national federations from nine Latin American states.

Safety standards meeting focuses on lab testing and marine anchors
image: Mihai Constantinescu The UIAA Safety Commission has held its annual plenary session from June 2 to 4 in Longarone, Italy. The expert panel, which develops the safety standards for equipment recognized by climbers around the world, discussed the extent which approved testing facilities can subcontract their work as well as updates to various standards. Also on the agenda was the issue of corrosion of anchors in tropical, marine areas. The UIAA reported in October 2009 that anchors used on routes in these environments weakened due to corrosion caused by the sea and year round wet climates. It was found that 10 to 20 per cent would fail with a force of 1 to 5 KN applied. The Safety Commission will discuss minimum lifetime targets for anchors in marine environments, choosing a corrosion resistant material, and recommendations for anchors already in place. Braking Minor changes to the new Braking Devices standard, which was the first of its kind when it was published in September 2009, were expected to be adopted in Longarone. The standard deals with four kinds of braking devices: manual, locking-assisted, abseiling devices and abseiling devices with a panic function. It lays out how to conduct static strength tests to assess stress on both the rope and the braking device. The president of the Safety Commission, Jean-Franck Charlet, lead a discussion on the EN standard on strength and slipping for crampons. The Italian Alpine Club (CAI) backed a proposal to revive sharp edge rope tests, which were suspended a few years ago. This issue will be looked at by manufacturers, labs and commission members this year. Numerous standards There are currently 20 UIAA Safety Standards, ranging from helmets, ice tools and slings to pulleys, anchors and karabiners. The standards are used by many of the biggest manufacturers of mountaineering equipment.

Members' value highlighted at executive meeting
Kalymnos: location of the meeting Increasing value for members by providing information on expeditions and mountain huts were two of the issues discussed at the UIAAs executive meeting, held on May 8 in Kalymnos, Greece. In his address to the UIAA Management Committee, President Mike Mortimer said he would like to see a working group launched to improve the value of UIAA services to members. A second area of activity would be the forming of continental groups as well as more direct contact between the UIAA Executive Board and Member Federations. The meeting heard that Executive Director, Judith Safford, will step down, effective June 30. Her successors major task will be fund raising. Board member Jordi Colomer provided background details on the decision to dissolve the Expeditions Commission last year, and why several members of the Management Committee want to see it revived and given a new mandate. Mark Richey (United States), Frits Vrijlandt (Netherlands), Doug Scott (UK) and Buddha Basynat (Nepal) will work to put forward a proposal to relaunch the commission. The meeting unanimously approved another proposal to set up a working group UIAA Reciprocity for Huts. The groups was asked to present its first conclusions in October.

Unique opportunity to become Ice Climbing partner
The UIAA, with the support of CCI Media, is offering companies and brands a unique platform as partners of the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup. It is an opportunity for firms to get involved in a young, cutting-edge sport with Olympic aspirations. The UIAA, as owner and developer of the Ice Climbing World Cup, is offering a wide range of rights: communication and VIP solutions, exposure and advertising opportunities, and a unique and multipurpose affiliation with the sport. Packages can be chosen that best fit a companys goals and budget. Find out more. The UIAA is working with CCI Media to expand the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit and to showcase the dynamic sport in Sochi, Russia in parallel with the 2014 Winter Olympics. CCI Media is already familiar with mountain sports, acting as marketing and sponsorship consultant to the Swiss Army organisers of the Ski Mountaineering race Patrouille des Glaciers. CCI Media is a business unit of CCI Cotting Consulting Ltd. Its chairman Patrick Cotting is a leading expert in the sponsorship and marketing field. Besides consulting multinational companies and institutions, he is a faculty member and lecturer at different universities in Switzerland and abroad (Lugano, Fribourg, Neuchtel, Cairo, Istanbul) and the worlds leading Sports Management Master programs, AISTS (sponsored by the IOC) and the FIFA Master at CIES.

Training assessment programme sees large demand
The UIAAs Mountaineering Commission is reviewing its international training assessment and accreditation programme, due to the large demand from national federations. The work of the Training Standards Working Group (TSWG) was in the spotlight at a recent meeting of the Mountaineering Commission in Montserrat, near Barcelona, Spain. The meeting was hosted by the Spanish federation, Federacin Espaola de Deportes de Montaa y Escalada (FEDME), and was very well attended by 21 delegates and guests from 14 different countries. Steve Long, Chairman of the TSWG, proposed a new, more structured process, with a professionalized moderation and assessment process and a system of regularly re-evaluating national schemes. Long and his colleagues are discussing these plans with the IFMGA (also known as the UIAGM) to ensure that the two schemes continue to complement each other. Strategic Plan Commission members also discussed a new Strategic Plan for the Mountaineering Commission. A revised set of goals and objectives were agreed, and a modern Mission statement was adopted: To promote best practice by identifying and addressing ethical, technical training, and legal issues of international importance. The Mountaineering Commissions collaboration with the charity Petzl Foundation was also on the meeting agenda. Following its success in Nepal, the foundation is now working with the Mountaineering Commission to develop mountain training in India. At the end of the summer (2010) two training sessions will be held in India, and it is hoped that this partnership will lead to the creation of a UIAA-accredited mountain training scheme. Chiaki Aoyuma speaks on mountain accident statistics Issues: bolting, legal, accident statistics The Montserrat meeting saw the creation of a Bolting Working Group to review the bolting policy in different federations, from which a UIAA bolting policy will be developed. The meeting also heard from the Legal Experts Working Group which now has 54 cases in its Mountain Legal Database. Finally, the Mountaineering Commission is continuing its work to create a system for collating international mountain accidents statistics, and to review its international climbing grade comparison table. Download full report.

EU Sport Forum told access and protection are priorities
The UIAA has taken part in the European Union Sport Forum held recently in Madrid, Spain. During the open discussion, UIAA Vice President Jordi Colomer informed the meeting that mountaineering and climbing counted among the most popular sports activities in Europe. For this reason, Colomer said, mountain access and protection were priorities for the UIAA. He added that the UIAA wished to cooperate more closely with the European Commission, and gave the mountaineering federations support for a future project to train volunteers active in amateur sport. The UIAA's Global Youth Summit unites sport, youth and training It is important for the UIAA to start relationships with the European Union Youth and Sport Commission and to ask for collaboration with UIAA members in EU states, Colomer said. The EU Sport Forum was co-organised by the Spanish Presidency. At the meeting, Pierre Mairesse, EU Director for Youth and Sport, presented a new policy framework for sport, and Pedro Velazquez, Deputy Head of Sport Unit, gave information about the implementation of the EU White Paper on Sport. Two documents were put forward for discussion: Sports societal function The organization and financing of sport The participating sport bodies defined the following priorities, which they would like to see the European Commission act upon: Training for Sport Volunteering Mobility for the Sport people Erasmus for Sport Increase European Championships Cooperation between Sport Federations The projects can be carried out with EU financial support. The second and final day of the forum saw a joint panel discussion with EU sport ministers and sport bodies on The Lisbon Treaty and Sport - new EU Agenda.

Candidates sought for senior manager position at UIAA
The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) is seeking a senior manager to coordinate the office functions and support volunteer activities of the federation from its office in Bern, Switzerland. The ideal candidate will be fluent in English and German and be able to demonstrate proven skills in the following critical areas: Fundraising Proven leadership ability in working with international staff Excellent working knowledge of office management systems Strong communication skills in a multi-cultural environment Ability to work in a not-for-profit environment This position would appeal to someone with a mountaineering background. For a complete job description please go here. All interested parties should send curriculum vitae no later than May 15, 2010 to Mr Jan Bonding at janb@danskbjergklub.dk Download the UIAA CV template.

Global climbing community invited to AAC's waste management meeting
The American Alpine Club will host an international conference on Managing Human Waste in the Wild. The event, called Exit Strategies, will take place in the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, Colorado, from July 30 to August 1. The aim of the meeting is to tackle the increasing and worldwide problem of waste management in some of the worlds most popular hiking and climbing destinations. Human waste is becoming a severe problem [especially] where climbers or trekkers are camped on glacial ice, says Steve Swenson, American Alpine Club President. The technology for managing these waste volumes in a sustainable and maintainable manner is still evolving. This conference will be a good opportunity to learn about the latest research and practical methods for managing human waste in the alpine environments. UIAA President Mike Mortimer will open the conference. Land managers, scientists and those involved with or working in wilderness areas will attend the event and help to develop strategies for managing human waste in mountain areas. Experts in the field, including Dawa Steven Sherpa of Nepals Eco Everest Expeditions, will give one of the talks. Plenary sessions, presentations and discussions will be held on various sustainable waste systems, such as the Denali National Park Clean Mountain Can system. Go here for thefull programmeand list of speakers. Organisers are trying to encourage international participation and have announced a special offer for Europeans. The offer includes free attendance (covering conference material and some meals) and accommodation from July 28 to August 1. In addition, European participants can join the optional hike on August 1 to the Rocky Mountain National Parks Lumpy Ridge free of charge. They are also encouraged to take advantage of the numerous trekking and climbing opportunities in the area during their trip. Learn about the UIAA's position on environmental protection in mountain zones.

Diemberger recalls first ascent of Dhaulagiri 50 years ago
Austrian climber Kurt Diemberger, the only remaining person alive to make first ascents on two 8,000 metre peaks, tells the UIAA about the historic expedition to the top of Dhaulagiri. Diemberger will be among the guests of honour at the Dhaulagiri Golden Jubilee Celebration in Nepal in mid-May, organized by the Nepal Mountaineering Association. Fifty years ago, a perfect day came along in the Himalaya, when the sun sparkled and the wind became a whisper, and six colleagues pushed toward the top of a rugged, dangerous peak, a castle in the clouds. At 8,167 metres, Mt. Dhaulagiri was considered until the mid-1800s the worlds highest mountain. Even today it has the greatest vertical rise from the local terrain, shooting skyward for 3 kilometres. And in 1960, it remained next to last among the worlds 8,000-metre peaks to be conquered. It is a beautiful mountain, said Kurt Diemberger, the Austrian climber who has stood atop peaks such as Everest and Makalu, but still holds Dhaulagiri close to his heart. This mountain has been seen for centuries from the Indian plains, a floating white castle. On that day, May 13, 1960, the team reached the apex of the white castle. Now Diemberger and other mountaineers from around the world plan to gather in Nepal to celebrate the 50th anniversary of that first ascent. The Nepal Mountaineering Association has announced it will host a Dhaulagiri Golden Jubilee Celebration in May at the International Mountain Museum in Pokhara, which lies in the Dhaulagiri region in western Nepal. Ang Tshering Sherpa, president of the association, listed a whos-who of mountaineering already committed to attend the event: Among them, Diemberger, who notched first ascents of both Dhaulagiri and Broad Peak; Reinhold Messner, the first to climb all 14 8,000-metre peaks; and Ang Rita Sherpa, whose 10 ascents of Everest without supplemental oxygen earned him the nickname the Snow Leopard. Also planning to attend are accomplished mountaineers Peter Habeler, Chris Bonington, Ken Noguchi, Apa Sherpa and Ang Rita Sherpa. For Nepal, Ang Tshering said, the event will celebrate the historic effort on Dhaulagiri and what it has meant since. The successful summiting of Dhaulagiri in 1960 holds a great importance for the development of mountain tourism of Nepal globally, he said. Mt. Dhaulagiri was considered one of the deadliest mountains, he continued. The successful ascent on it increased mountaineering activities in Dhaulagiri area, with the uplift of economic condition of the people. Mountain of memories The history of Dhaulagiris ascent begins long before May 13, 1960, says Diemberger. Today, the 78-year-old Diemberger commutes between residences in Salzburg, Austria and Bologna, Italy, spending time with family and working on books about his storied mountaineering career. Yet he remembers Dhaulagiri well. Ask about the peak and Diemberger becomes professorial, outlining years of work by many who made the ascent possible. This is what he plans to talk about, accompanied with slides, as a Guest of Honor at the Dhaulagiri Golden Jubilee. There are so many memories, he said. Sixty years ago, before any human had stood atop an 8,000-metre peak, a French team reached a saddle at 5,200 metres on Dhaulagiri. Upon examining the mountains treacherous southeast ridge and face, the team agreed the route was impossible and retreated. A month later this same French team became the first to reach the summit of an 8,000-metre peak: Annapurna. Other failed attempts throughout the 1950s followed. One of Diembergers favorite tales is of an expedition by the Argentinean military. When the team reached 7,200 metres there was no place to set up camp. So it blasted the rock with dynamite to make a flat space, Diemberger said, chuckling. The successful expedition Diemberger joined was organised by Max Eiselin of Lucerne, Switzerland. With little money for the venture, he, Eiselin and others began asking people to contribute. He said many in Switzerland, Austria, Germany and Italy sent small amounts, the equivalent of 10 or 20 Swiss francs. Other companies donated gear. A favorite of Diembergers from the Dhaulagiri expedition were the reindeer knee-high boots, made in Italy from Norwegian reindeer skin. They were very light and very good, better than some of the plastic boots today, he said. One fact Diemberger highlights about the Dhaulagiri expedition was its international nature. The team itself brought together people from at least five countries. This was an expedition which, under Swiss organisation, was the first international ascent of an 8,000-metre peak, Diemberger said. On the mountain The team proceeded in spring 1960 up the mountain. The expedition employed a unique tool that also marked another mountaineering first: the use of an airplane to transport people and supplies. The plane, called Yeti, landed and took off from a camp at 5,700 metres on the mountain. The altitude still stands today as an aeronautical record. However the Yeti crashed on May 5 as it was taking off from the camp. Nobody was injured, but it meant that the 16-member expedition was divided into three geographically isolated groups. Diemberger was in the group that was highest on the mountain. The team built several camps at higher and higher elevations, preparing for the assault. This smaller team had more time to acclimate to the elevation, Diemberger said. The main issue in waiting for the right day, he said, was the weather. It was also technologically challenging, it was difficult, but the main challenge was the weather, he said. Storm after storm came in. After one failed attempt, late on May 12 it appeared the perfect day had arrived. The group made its way without oxygen, and each carrying an alpine-style load, Diemberger said. That day, under a clear, blue sky, the team made it to the summit. In addition to Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, all Swiss, summited, as well as Nima Dorje Sherpa and Nawang Dorje Sherpa of Nepal. Ten days later, expedition members Michel Vaucher and Hugo Weber, both Swiss, also reached Dhaulagiris summit. I am happy they also made it, Diemberger said. Dhaulagiri today The route used by that first Dhaulagiri expedition remains the main one to the summit today. But other routes have since been forged on the mountain. There will be new routes all the time, Diemberger said. These were totally different times, he continued, remembering the effort. Now you can look down with a satellite and see this and that. Whether you make it or not remains the big adventure of mountaineering. Even a satellite cant tell you that. Nepal Mountaineering Association President Ang Tshering Sherpa said the Golden Jubilee celebrations of all the 8,000-metre first ascents in Nepal bring the mountaineering community together. They are also important for telling the world that things are changing in the Himalaya. During these celebrations, we have witnessed overwhelming support and the presence of famous mountaineers from all around the mountaineering community in the world and this has a positive impact in our country's image, he said. In return, these celebrations are also an opportunity for Nepal to show deep appreciation and gratitude to the mountaineers and mountain lovers who have done so much to promote Nepal. Throughout the Himalayas, the ice and the glaciers are melting at an alarming rate, he continued. Unfortunately, Dhaulagiri is no exception to this trend. We have noticed that the routes are more unstable and avalanches and rockfalls are becoming more common due to the increased temperatures. Also, the weather patterns are becoming more unpredictable and extreme. The Nepal Mountaineering Association is very concerned about these circumstances. We are now focusing on making climbing more secure as these changes occur on the mountains by constantly improving the skills of Nepali mountaineers and their awareness of the climbing environment. The association is working with the Nepali government to finalise details of the Dhaulagiri celebration. Then more information will be available on the Nepal Mountaineering Association website.

Nakamura reveals Sichuan's unclimbed peaks
Renowned Japanese climber and explorer, Tamotsu Tom Nakamura, has returned from a recent expedition to Sichuan, China. His report, below, details the many unclimbed peaks in the region. Many of the peaks he refers to can be viewed in this gallery of his photographs. Nakamura report: Unclimbed Summits in Sichuan China 2010 As shown on the map below (see gallery), only a few unclimbed 6,000m peaks remain in Sichuan, China, but there are many alluring peaks exceeding 5,400m 5,500m which inspire and attract challenging climbers. Among them, I have selected 16 outstanding unclimbed peaks in West Sichuan Highlands, and write a brief overview thereof as follows. 1. Western extension of Chola Shan Range Polujab 5,816m is located close to a historical monastery, Zhogchen Gomba west of the Chola Shan Pass. 2. Shaluli Shan Range This mountains range covers a vast area and there would be no definite boundary between the Shaluli Shan Range and the other ranges. (1) Gangga Massif This massif ranges just north of Yalong Jiang (a tributary of the River of Golden Sand the upper Yangtze) near Ganzi town. The highest peak, Gangga 5,688 was reconnoitered and accessed by a Japanese party, but still remains unclimbed. There are several 5,400 5,500m peaks, all of which have not been attempted. They are mostly rocky peaks. (2) Yangmolong massif and its vicinity This massif is situated about 16km east of Batang town. There are three principal peaks of Dangchechengla 5,833m climbed by Japanese, Yangmolong Central 6033m climbed by Korean and the main peak of Yangmolong 6060m, which in spite of repeated assaults by a Japanese party and British parties remain unclimbed. It is felt that Yangmolong is one of the toughest peaks in Sichuan. A Chinese topographical map 1/100,000 indicates a cluster of 5,700 5800m peaks located northeast of Yangmolong massif and south of the Sichuan-Tibet Highway. They are all unclimbed. The highest peak is 5870m and the second highest is Xianqingqieke 5867m. (3) Genyen massif and neighboring mountains to the north and northwest Genyen 6204m was first climbed by a Japanese party and then an Italian party made the second ascent via a new route on the east face, and the second highest peak 5964m was already scaled by an American party. However many challenging rock peaks of 5800-5900m peaks north and north east of Genyen remain untouched. These are shown on a Russian topographical map 1/200,000. This area must be a paradise that draws an attention of climbers. (4) Gongga Xueshan (Kongkaling) massif This massif with three fascinating snowy peaks located in Daocheng County forms the southern rim of the Shaluli Shan Range. They are holy mountains among local Tibetan people. All of three peaks remain unclimbed; Xiannariri 6032m, the highest peak, attempted by a Japanese party, a famous beautiful pyramid of Yangmaiyong, Joseph Rocks Jambeyang, 5958m was reached by Charlie Fowler and Christine Boskoff to 500m below the summit, and Xiaruduo 5958m was once attempted by an American party. At present climbing of these peaks is not allowed by the local government of Daocheng County on account of the sacred religious mountains. 3. Gongkara Shan Range The main peak of this range is Kawarani I 5992m soaring 30km east of Ganzi town. A Japanese party and a British party tried to set up the BC for reconnaissance and climbing, but monks of a lamasery in the vicinity hindered their approach. Since then no party has visited this mountains. 4. Daxue Shan Range (1) Massifs in Danba County There are several unfrequented and untrodden 5400 5500m peaks west of the Dadu River, a tributary of, the Min Jian, the upper Yangtze, but only Xiaqianla 5470m is attractive. Danba County is keen to develop the mountain area of Xiaqianla with beautiful glacial lakes for a tourist spot. (2) Lamoshe massif east of Kangding This massif is just east of Kangding town. Early explorers named Mountains of Tatsienlu. The highest peak is Lamoshe and was first climbed by an American party. One of the other 5800m peak was first climbed by a NZ party, but the second highest peak, Baihaizi Shan 5924m remains unclimbed. (3) Minya Konka Massif Only a couple of 6000m peaks remain unclimbed in this huge and largest mountains massif of Minya Konka in Sichuan. Outstanding virgin peaks are 6858m peak and Mountain San Lian 6684, southwest of the main summit of Minya Konka. Three unnamed peaks of 6206m 6130m on the ridge between Mt. Edgar (E-Kongga) 6618m and Jiaz Feng 6540m and 6148m peak on the west ridge from the main peak of Minya Konka also remain unclimbed but they are not much impressive. Mountain San Lian is most dominant among the unclimbed summits in Minya Konka massif. Nyambo Konka was once attempted by an American party. 5. Mountain Ranges east of Dadu River (southeast of Danba) Many 5400 5700m peaks range along the eastern side of Dadu River valley between Danba and Luding. No climbing record is published. The highest peak is 5734m and details of the massif are unknown on account of lack of information. However they would be not much attractive. 6. Qonglai Mountains Range All most all the peaks including Mt. Siguniang 6250m and adjacent outstanding peaks over 5200m peaks have already been ascended, as many climbers have been rushing to this mountain area in the last decade. Nevertheless a few peaks would still remain unclimbed, but details are not available, since there are so many 5400 5500m peaks in this mountain range.

Key deal to throw spotlight on Ice Climbing World Cup
The UIAA has reached a deal with Swiss marketing specialist CCI Media to develop and promote the World Cup of the young and dynamic sport of Ice Climbing. Lead champion 2010 was Markus Bendler (image:Lukasz Warzecha) The UIAA is responsible for the organisation of the World Cup and International Championships, and working with CCI Media will help the UIAA attain its goal of not only expanding the World Cup circuit but also showcasing the exciting sport in Sochi, Russia in parallel with the 2014 Winter Olympics. CCI Media will develop a master plan for the scheduling, marketing, promotion and branding of the competition circuit. This will include a concept for sponsorships allowing partners who support the development goals of UIAA Ice Climbing to engage and to associate at different levels. The firm is already familiar with mountain sports, acting as marketing and sponsorship consultant to the Swiss Army organisers of the Ski Mountaineering race Patrouille des Glaciers. CCI Media is a business unit of CCI Cotting Consulting Ltd. Its chairman Patrick Cotting is a leading expert in the sponsorship and marketing field. Besides consulting multinational companies and institutions, he is a faculty member and lecturer at different universities in Switzerland and abroad (Lugano, Fribourg, Neuchtel, Cairo, Istanbul) and the worlds leading Sports Management Master programs, AISTS (sponsored by the IOC) and the FIFA Master at CIES. The UIAA was pleased to have on board two sports clothing manufacturers as Presenting Sponsors for the 2010 World Cup. RedFox is Russias premiere outdoor clothing and equipment brand, making everything from high-tech mountaineering trousers to sleeping bags of Russian goose down. The footwear of Italys Zamberlan range from solid boots for high-alpine adventures to robust but fashionable sport sandals.

Ice Climbing World Cup to premiere in Asia in 2011
The first-ever UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup event on Asian soil will take place in the 2011 competition season. The Korean Alpine Federation(KAF) will host Speed and Lead competitions in January 2011, kicking off the circuit for the season. In Speed, athletes race up an ice face for the best time. In Lead competitions the climbers' ability to master a difficult route in a given time is tested. World Cup events will then move west from Korea to Europe. While it may be Koreas first time putting on a World Cup event, Koreans certainly arent newcomers to the Ice Climbing scene. image:Lukasz Warzecha The last weekend of the 2010 World Cup, held in Busteni, Romania, saw strong performances from Korean climbers Shin Woon Seon and Hee Yong Park, who won the final Lead competitions in the women's and men's events respectively. And Lead competitions take place all over Korea throughout the winter season, says Andrej Pecjak, a member of the UIAA Ice Climbing Commission who visited Korea in January to observe several competitions. Ice Climbing is like a national sport in Korea, Pecjak said in a report about his visit. Rich climbing history Pecjak said the Koreans are professional and enthusiastic ice climbers.They have various man-made icefalls where people spend their free time by ice climbing. One can see numerous climbers of various ages from 16 to 80 years both men and women. Competitions of various types are held all over Korea more then one per weekend. Korea also boasts natural icefalls that draw climbers, such as the 300-meter Tuan icefall. First ascents on Korean icefalls mainly took place in the early 1970s. The first competitions were organised in the late 90s. Today, Korean athletes can train year-round at a 20-meter-tall, artificial indoor ice wall. And sport events are developed under the guidance of the Korean Alpine Federation, Pecjak explains. At an event Pecjak attended, 306 people competed, divided into men, women, youth and senior categories in Lead. Up next for the Koreans: Hosting a UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup event, the worlds premiere ice climbing competition circuit. This is a welcome event for all Korean climbers. As the first UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup in an Asian country, it will greatly motivate climbers in Korea, as well as those in Japan and China, says In Jeong Lee, KAF President. We are very happy to join the effort to be part of the Winter Olympics which is UIAA's ultimate Olympic goal. We will do our best to make the event successful and ask European and American climbers to participate in the 2011 UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup competition in Korea. A growing sport A 2011 Korean event could just be the start of growth in the sport. There were four events on the World Cup circuit in 2010, and the competitions are demanding, held over four weekends in four different countries from early January to early February. In 2011, the circuit would begin in Korea, then move to Europe. In addition, the UIAA is working toward showcasing Ice Climbing competitions in Sochi, Russia at the same time as the 2014 Winter Olympics. Discussions with the Sochi Olympic Organising Committee have indicated that Ice Climbing could be welcome as part of the Live Events being planned for the general public. Ultimately, the UIAA is working toward Ice Climbings inclusion in the Winter Olympics. The event in Asia will certainly boost Ice Climbing as a sport, especially in Japan and China, and will also give us more credibility to achieve our Olympics goal, Pecjak adds. The UIAA launched the Ice Climbing World Cup in 2000. The UIAA is the International Olympic Committees recognised international federation for mountaineering and natural surface climbing. With 74 member organisations in 56 countries, the UIAA represents more than 1 million mountaineers and climbers worldwide.

Medical experts publish advice in German and Japanese
image: Mark Richey The Medical Commission of the UIAA has added German and Japanese translations to many of its Englishadvice and recommendation papers. For the first time, mountaineers now have access to official versions of the papers in three languages that have been approved by the international panel of medical experts. The documents provide essential tips on issues of importance to mountaineers or anyone going to high altitude such as Acute Mountain Sickness and other altitude illnesses including the effect on a woman's menstrual cycle, diarrhoea, nutrition, and the impact of extremes of temperature on drugs. The UIAA Medical Commission is a global forum of doctors who meet regularly to up date information on medical issues related to the mountains.

New posts to fill at AISTS sports academy
The Lausanne, Switzerland-based AISTS - a UIAA partner - is looking for a suitable candidate for a sustainable development post, and for a Head of Education. The details are contained in this letter from AISTS Executive Director Dr Claude Stricker: Dear MSA lecturers and AISTS partners, The AISTS (International Academy of Sports Science and Technology) is expanding their team and searching to fill two openings within the organisation. The first is a new position for a Scientific Head of Sustainable Development. In 2008, AISTS together with VANOC, the Vancouver Organising Committee for the 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games, created the Sustainable Sport and Event Toolkit (SSET) as a practical set of guidelines for sport organisations to develop their events, sports and organisations sustainably. As the demand for expertise in sustainable development from federations, event organizers, host cities and the broader sports industry continues to grow and evolve, AISTS, with the support of two of their founding members, the International Olympic Committee and the City of Lausanne, has created a new position to further develop our sustainable expertise. Please view the Scientific Head of Sustainable Development job description and requirements here. The second opening is for a Head of Education to manage, develop and lecture in AISTS's continuing education courses including the MSA postgraduate degree - Masters of Advanced Studies in Sport Administration and Technology, seminars, and certificates. For more information on the Head of Education position, please view the job description here. Please feel free to forward these descriptions to inform interested and qualified candidates. Sincerely, AISTS Dr Claude Stricker AISTS Executive Director www.aists.org Direct links to postings : http://www.aists.org/images/stories/jobs/AISTS__Job_Opening_EN_8_1_2010.pdf http://www.aists.org/images/stories/jobs/AISTS_Head_of_Education_Job_Opening_21_01_2010.pdf

Big strides for Georgian ski mountaineering on Mt Kazbek
The UIAA Youth Commission is supporting the Georgian mountaineering federation in its efforts to set up a youth programme. At the request of the Mountaineering and Climbing Association of Georgia (MCAG) and its President Zurab Kutchava, the Youth Commission sent Swiss mountain guide Daniel Oberli on an exploratory mission to look at what is needed in terms of technical skills and physical standards, areas where training is needed and how to build a syllabus for youth leader education. Why? While Georgia has a long mountaineering tradition, the climbers wish to develop a national youth programme and eventually hold a UIAA international youth meet including ski mountaineering, and whats more build infrastructure to support it. This is just the start, says UIAA Youth Commission President Anne Arran. From initial reports, I anticipate it will take a couple of years to take this ARISF-supported project to completion; but feel privileged to be there at the start of creating a new kind of opportunity for young climbers. We need equipment support from manufacturers and/or mountaineers to take the next step. There will be continuing training before the next international visit. Zurab felt the training was very useful and is looking forward to the next visit. Brief report from Daniel Oberli, International Federation of Mountain Guides Association (IFMGA) On the 18th of December we met together in Tbilisi centre and drove to northern Caucasus by taxi-bus. Most of the participants live in the capital. In Kazbegi, close to the Russian border, we organised our material for the next few days. Everybody packed their bags and additional food. Each bag weighed around 25kg. After a two-hour walk by skis towards Mt. Kazbek we arrived at our campsite at approximately 2600m and stayed there for three days of training. We worked on the basics and I showed the participants how they can move up and down very easily and safely on skis; it's very important, when your backpacks are heavy! We discussed winter conditions including mountain hazards and rescue systems. As a first step I showed them avalanche transmitters and search systems, and we looked at various scenarios. Finally we learnt about proper behaviour on a glacier, when a rope is needed and how to walk up and ski down with a rope. That was quite funny. We also enjoyed daily camp life where we talked a lot about everything, but mostly about mountains... and we became friends, which is to be expected when there are four people to a tent! After four cold and windy days we went back to Kazbegi, enjoyed a typical and very delicious Georgian dinner and drove back to Tbilisi. On the 22nd we had talks at Zuras house and created a first syllabus to be used during the next visit. Local television was interested and made a short report for the news. After a farewell party proving how excellent Georgian hospitality is, I flew back to Switzerland with a lot of new experiences and new knowledge about local traditions, and many stories to tell. All images: Daniel Oberli

Ice thrills competitors of first-ever youth event
President of the UIAA Youth Commission, Anne Arran, interviewed three key people involved with the first ever UIAA European Youth Ice Climbing Championship which took place from January 16 to 17 in Saas Grund, Switzerland. She spoke to the winner of the womens competition, a former World Cup star coaching at the event and a route setter. Liubov Mikryukova, age 16, womens winner Liubov, aged 16, grew up in chilly Kirov, Russia and started rock climbing six years ago when she was just ten. It wasnt until the age of 14 that she started ice climbing. Ice is my favourite. I was inspired by seeing an Ice World Cup and thought Id like to try it. Its incredible, its mine, I have unusual feelings for it! I asked Luibov a few questions about how she is able to thrive in this harsher sporting environment, and about the first European Ice climbing Youth Championship. What about the competition here how was it? Here in Saas Grund I like all the routes, rock and Ice but my hands are like ice when I clip so its hard. But the comp is amazing, very exciting good routes on ice and the rocks. Tools of the trade - Speed climbing axes from Russia (Ph Anne Arran) Have you led any ice falls outside? So far I have only done routes with bolts or preplaced ice screws. We only do ice in the winter. At home there is a wall where we can climb all year and it has holds for climbing with ice tools. I have only done one route outside, I dont think it was very hard. In the finals of the competition it was my second mixed M route on rock ever! I have little experience of it. What do your friends think of it? I have many climbing friends in Russia but many dont like ice climbing because its dangerous and cold. But I like it, its my addiction! Liubov Mikryukova winner (Ph. Anne Arran) What advice would you give to other young climbers if they wanted to try ice climbing? This is not just a hobby, its a way of life. Its risky but an amazing feeling after you climb must be tried! It is hard to express how it is. Our youngest team member is 15 years old. What are your future ambitions? I want to visit Italy, France and Romania. I want to see different types of ice I want to learn all about it - I am a very curious person. Oh and I want to become a famous sports person and get the gold! Urs Odermatt 35 years old, former World Cup winner in Norway UIAA Youth Coaching with the Stars coach Urs coaching young climbers in Saas Grund (Ph Anne Arran) Urs started climbing in 1990 when there was only primitive coaching. You just had to survive but then we had some serious training in the gym. I won a World Cup in Norway but think my best achievement was coming second in the Russian speed climbing championships. Top tips from Urs Beginners should climb as much ice as possible. If you have a good axe it knows what to do. Hold it in a relaxed way and give a swing with the hand, almost as if you were throwing it. When it bites into the ice grip it and lock. Hang on a straight arm. (Making it only a short time that you are gripping the axe hard uses less energy.) These days you need to be a world-class climber to be top class in ice climbing competitions; to have the [full] repertoire of moves. On rock, M climbing, if you have a hook, dont replace the axe once its in. On rock you can really feel the hold so its possible to move your hand, but with the ice axe you only have visual control of seeing where the axe should go. Climbing on ice is similar to rock but its less dynamic and you use the figure of 4 move a lot more. There are many lock-in moves so you need to be strong at this, but training on the campus board can ruin the elbows! Its necessary to be able to cope with very cold temperatures, down to - 30 degrees in Kirov. Those who werent used to it didnt do so well. Future ambitions At the moment I like very long ice lines with as many pitches as possible! You can have nightmares before them but when you survive you think its OK. I never talk about planned trips. My next target is about 1 hour from Zurich. It is the biggest waterfall in Europe 1800m of ice fall. It has no name Im not going to tell you where it is. We have tried it before but the conditions on the top are either too cold or avalanching so its difficult. More information on Urs and some amazing images of his outdoor climbing can be foundhere. Young ice climbers making testing out the ice in Saas Grund (Ph. Anne Arran) Fellow coach Ines Papert showing how to swing an axe (Ph. Anne Arran) The ice and mixed Guide for Switzerland Gabriel and his daughter at Saas Grund (Ph Anne Arran) Gabriel Voide route setter the philosophy behind the competition Gabriel has been the Saas Fee ice competition organiser for the past ten years. He stopped this year to look after his young children, taking a step back to concentrate on the route setting . Voide says the main idea was to have a European Championship but then we see the climbers are of all levels. We had no idea how they would climb because this is the first competition. The competitors also may be good in climbing competitions but have perhaps only climbed twice before using an ice axe. Now they do really interesting moves; one Swiss climber was afraid to climb on lead, but she really pushed the limits today, I am sure she must have done her hardest climb! We think that 14 years of age is a good age to start because they have a good basis of sport climbing already and also hitting the ice is hard for some of the girls until this age. The good thing about these youth camps and competitions is that it will encourage a new generation of adult competitors. Before we lost them after a certain age. Young competitor doing battle with one of Gabriel's final route (Ph Anne Arran) Did you make the routes the right standard? The route setting was pure gambling after the first climb for the girls we made it much easier and for the boys a little bit easier. How did you make an ice wall in a car park for Saas Fee? It took us all autumn to make the ice construction for Saas Fee. We make the suspended ice blocks in a big fridge and then pulled them up so they sit in the roof.

Anti-Doping talks held on Ice Climbing sidelines
The UIAA Anti-Doping Commission has held a key meeting on the sidelines of the Ice Climbing World Cup event in Saas Fee, Switzerland on January 24. The commission is responsible for developing and maintaining the UIAAs doping control programme including in and out of competition testing, result-based testing, random testing and targeted testing. The body also ensures compliance with the WADA code and educating and informing stakeholders on anti-doping policy. The commissions support for Ice Climbing - the UIAAs sole competition sport as well as doping controls was a focus of the meeting. Furthermore, the international group of experts discussed stepping up cooperation with three other UIAA commissions, Medical, Ice Climbing and Youth. The commission used the occasion to make use ofWADAs Athlete Outreach Program. This is one of the most effective vehicles to raise awareness and build understanding of doping-free sport. WADAs Play True Quiz was created as a core element to the Athlete Outreach Program. Thirty athletes competing in Saas Fee took part in it.The commission measured and recorded variables such as body mass index, arm span, leg length, grip strength and endurance, and flexibility. The aim of the project was to test claims by many experts that elite climbers differ from recreational climbers and active non-climbers on leg span, body fat percentage, flexibility, and muscular strength and endurance.

Advice paper issued on hypoxia
The UIAA Medical Commission has published a new paper that offers health and safety advice on hypoxia. More and more people no longer just climbers at high altitude - can be affected by hypoxia, a condition in which the body is deprived of an adequate supply of oxygen. For example, hypoxia is now also being used for fire prevention in storage areas, for altitude training in sport and for many other purposes, the Medical Commission says. As a consequence more and more employees and other persons are exposed to hypoxia. This is why the panel of medical experts decided to issue the document, Work in Hypoxic Conditions. Due to the UIAAs expertise for activities in a low oxygen environment, the commission says it has a special responsibility to coordinate an international consensus on this topic. Up to now there has been no consensus on how to provide occupational health and safety advice. Most regulations do not take into account the kind of exposure or other circumstances (e.g. whether the person is able to escape from hypoxia at any time). Regulations do not define the type or degree of different risks if any and therefore a more specialised analysis of the individual exposure is necessary to provide adequate advice for health and safety. The paper is divided into several sections for ease of use, showing the difference between the various types of exposure to hypoxic conditions, and their consequences, the procedures of preventive medical care in Occupational Medicine and safety for people working in different hypoxic situations.

UIAA enters strategic partnerships with RedFox and Zamberlan
Image: S. Pavalache, www.photodesign.ro The UIAAs Ice Climbing World Cup, the worlds premiere ice climbing competition series, kicks off in January with two new sponsors. Russian mountaineering clothing and equipment company RedFox and Italian footwear maker Zamberlan will be Presenting Sponsors for the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup 2010 competition circuit. The first event will take place in Kirov, Russia from January 7 to 9. The partnerships between UIAA and RedFox and Zamberlan come at a time when competitive ice climbing is poised to draw attention on a worldwide stage. The UIAA, in its commitment to developing the sport, plans to expand the circuit with the intention of showcasing ice climbing competitions in Sochi, Russia at the same time as the 2014 Winter Olympics. Discussions with the Sochi Olympic Organising Committee have indicated that Ice Climbing competitions could be welcome as part of the Live Events being planned for the general public. Ultimately, the UIAA is working toward Ice Climbings inclusion in the Winter Olympics. The support of RedFox and Zamberlan will help the UIAA toward that goal as it continues its promotion of competitive Ice Climbing. For the two companies, sponsorship will provide them great visibility in new markets at the most prestigious competitions in the sport. While the first known Ice Climbing event occurred in 1912, the Ice Climbing World Cup is relatively new, launched in 2000. World Cup events generally include Speed and Lead competitions. In Speed, athletes race up an ice face for the best time. In Lead competitions the climbers ability to master a difficult route in a given time is tested. Both companies will provide gifts for every participant at this winters competitions, which draw about 150 athletes each. Started covertly during the nations communist days, RedFox is now Russias premiere outdoor clothing and equipment brand, making everything from high-tech mountaineering pants to sleeping bags of Russian goose down. The company also provides support for the Russian Mountaineering Championships, training of mountain rescuers and instructors, and backing of expeditions and ascents. Zamberlan, which makes outdoor footwear ranging from sturdy, mountaineering boots to sport sandals, is a family business that started in 1929. Its products are sold in more than 40 countries and export sales exceed 90 per cent of its total business. The company has also backed expeditions and ascents. The UIAA, with more than 82 member organisations in 57 countries, represents more than 1 million people worldwide. Its the International Olympic Committees recognised international federation for mountaineering and natural surface climbing.

Officially published - Mountain Ethics Declaration
Image: Mark Richey The UIAA has published its Mountain Ethics Declaration on December 11 to mark International Mountain Day. The Declaration spells out ethics of sportsmanship, respect for cultures and care for the environment, and it was approved at the UIAA General Assembly on October 10. It includes 12 maxims, addressing issues such as the responsibility to assist others in need, the factual reporting of ascents and the use of supplementary oxygen. It is most appropriate that this declaration be announced on International Mountain Day - a declaration that has been endorsed by more than 40 mountaineering federations from across the globe, said UIAA President, Mike Mortimer. The Declaration also includes a maxim on Access and Conservation, endorsed by the UIAAs Access Commission. Responsible access to practice our sport is not simply about environmental protection, albeit a very important part. Wider responsibilities are detailed throughout the ethics code including respect for: local and national mountaineering ethics, local people, cultures and religions and responsibility to others, said Access Commission President, Clare Bond. Medical issues Medical emergency situations can always arise in a remote setting and hopefully, after reading the Declaration, people will be encouraged to help others, said Buddha Basnyat, UIAA Medical Commission President. This will help foster a culture of sensible behaviour and selflessness. Doug Scott, the famed British mountaineer, worked diligently on the document. The Mountain Ethics Declaration is very timely, Scott said, especially to help those climbers in areas where there is no strong consensus of opinion as to the best way forward. The final Declaration was many years in the making, and drew on the work previously presented at various times as the Mountain Code, the Summit Charter and the Tyrol Declaration. The UIAA will review the Declaration on a periodic basis ensuring that it will be a living document. Download a copy of the Mountain Ethics Declaration. Download the UIAA press release.

Ice Climbing refresher and intensive courses offered
Stelian Pavalache, photodesign.ro The UIAA Ice Climbing Commission is offering a series of refresher and intensive courses for route setting and judging. The first event begins on December 16 in Kirov, Russia. This is for national route-setters and judges and is aimed at a mainly Russian-speaking group. Participants learn about the organisational structure of UIAA Ice Climbing and are introduced to the regulations of the Lead, Boulder and Speed disciplines, and how to judge fairly and compile results. Kirov is the scene of the second course week from January 6 to 9, 2010, but this is open to all, providing the instruction in English. Saas Fee, Switzerland will host three different courses starting on January 21. The first will be a day of theory followed by a session of World Cup assistance. The last day (January 24) will be a refresher course aimed at very experienced route-setters. All three courses will take into account aspects for Youth. The final course week will take place in Busteni, Romania from February 8 to 12. Three days will be devoted to route-setting and two to judging. Full list of courses

Climate change impacts in Huascaran National Park, Peru
Image: Rodney Garrard Mountain Protection Commission member Rodney Garrard (New Zealand) outlines environmental change and conservation challenges in Huascaran National Park, Peru. The article (see below) explains why many climbers are currently involved in conservation work, and the need for a credible market-based incentive that reduces our impacts to such regions. The article featured in the New Zealand Alpine Journal 2009. You can contact Rodney at www.garrard.co.nz. Download full article Mountain Protection Commission

Recalls function one-stop shop for climbing community
The equipment recalls function added to theRisk Management section of the UIAA website is a global one-stop-shopping point for climbers who wish to identify equipment that has been recalled by the manufacturer. David Custer of the UIAA Safety Commission explains the benefits: The climbing community: For climbers who want to know whether their equipment is up to snuff, access to the recalls page is one small part of making sure that their equipment remains suitable for climbing. Before the UIAA recalls page existed, a climber would have to keep tabs on manufacturers, country specific recall sites, climbing websites, and climbing magazines. The time and the language ability required to find and verify recall information is now greatly reduced: at a glance, it is possible to view the global recall situation. Manufacturers: From a climbing equipment manufacturer's point of view, the UIAA recall page offers a central point for disseminating recall information to climbers around the world. The recalls function is exactly the sort of benefit that only the UIAA is positioned to offer the climbing community. Go to the Certified Equipment and Recalls page for more information.

Doctors move forward on altitude issues
The UIAA Medical Commission is investigating a number of new health-related matters that can impact climbers at altitude. At a meeting last week (November 15-17) in Kathmandu, the commission said it would begin work on consensus papers on eye and dental problems. The panel of international doctors also agreed to look into the controversial issue of doping in mountaineering. A potential future service discussed in the Nepali capital could be an advisory on how to avoid the health risks of travel, so people are in good mental and physical condition when they arrive in the mountains. The Medical Commission also debated whether it has an obligation to set minimum standards for hypoxia training centres or work environments like libraries and museums where the ambient oxygen levels may be lowered due to fire hazard.Hypoxia is a pathological condition in which the body as a whole or a region of the body is deprived of adequate oxygen supply. Kilimanjaro The doctors expressed concern about commercial operators taking clients too high, too quickly up Kilimanjaro and other peaks. This is one reason the Medical Commission has published a paper on the UIAA website designed to show people how to plan a Kilimanjaro ascent. It was noted that a helicopter rescue service is now available for the African mountain, and that the longer routes up Kili were becoming more popular. However, young, budget travellers were highlighted as a risk group.How to be medically safe while climbing Denali is the next project in this category. Diploma A new application form for the UIAAs Diploma in Mountain Medicine, and charging a fee for the label was discussed. Some countries that have left the UIAA are still using the label. The UIAA collaborates with other organisations to provide doctors three different levels of training to teach them about medicine in the mountains. So far, six universities offer the diploma course. Commission members also took the opportunity to hold discussions with about 40 young Nepali medics. The topics ranged from cardiovascular death in the mountains to the history of the Mountain Medicine Society of Nepal and the Himalayan Rescue Hospital,the Himalayan Rescue Association, and the Khune Hospital built by Sir Edmund Hillary. The Medical Commissions 2010 meeting will be held in Arequipa, Peru.

Ice Climbing stars to coach youth at championship
Final preparations are underway for the inaugural UIAA European Ice Climbing Youth Championship. The event in Saas Grund, Switzerland, will include a competition on January 16, 2010 followed by a unique opportunity for the young athletes to learn from the sports elite on the Coaching with the Stars day on January 17 (application form). Former World Cup champions, Ines Papert and Urs Odermatt, will be in Saas Grund to pass on their knowledge and tricks of the trade. Papert will also give a talk on January 17 in the neighbouring resort of Saas Fee. In the following interview, the former womens champion tells the UIAA why there is no gain without pain. Image: Cory Richards Why have you decided to support the European Ice Climbing Youth Championship? Ines Papert: I didnt receive any support when I was a competitor, and so it was often difficult to organise my preparation and decide how I should train. I would like to see the youth of today receive more support and that will be my contribution in Saas Grund. Id like to pass on the lessons Ive learned to the motivated youth. What will be your main message to the participants? I.P.: Training isnt very exciting until it starts to hurt. I was taught that by my climbing friend, Hari Berger (Ice Climbing World Champion, died in accident, winter 2006). And despite the pain it really is a lot of fun. I can only motivate myself to the limit when I train with friends. I will describe my personal training programme, and put its elements into practice with the participants. Im looking forward to it. As an Ice Climber what do you enjoy most about competing in a World Cup event? I.P.: Looking forward to seeing the other athletes, but also the party. Of course, the climbing is itself a main attraction and the best part is winning:-) Image: Rainer Eder Ice Climbing is still a relatively unknown sport. How do you see the future of the sport? I.P.: My experience shows that its not enough to be a good climber at competitions to get noticed by the media. Of course titles are highly valued by the public but we could do a better job marketing ourselves, calling attention to climbing feats and the achievement of exceptional routes. That would generate a lot more publicity. The Ice Climbing World Cup has given me a solid base for a passion that I can now live out to the fullest climbing in natural surroundings. Ive come to appreciate both. (In February 2008, Ines Papert became the first women to climb Switzerland's 'Flying Circus M10', one of the legendary mixed routes, exactly 10 years after the first ascent by Robert Jasper.) Ines Papert website Urs Odermatt website

Youth Summit kicks off with Slovenian ski touring event
Young ski mountaineers are invited by the Alpine Association of Slovenia to take part in an International ski touring camp from February 20-27. The aim of the week is to bring together young skiers from different cultures to make friends and learn from each other. Base will be the Planina na Kraju mountain hut (1,500m) in the Komna area of the Julian Alps known as the Beautiful Komna. The surroundings will provide a variety of challenges to the participants, ranging from easy to more demanding tours, and will reach heights above 2000m. The organisers ask that participants have basic ski touring experience. Instruction will be given on winter mountaineering skills from skiing to avalanche rescue and about Slovenias mountain traditions and techniques. The camp is for 17-29 year olds who want to experience the Julian Alps, advance their ski touring skills and meet other youth from around the world. To take part, you must apply through your mountaineering association. The group will consist of 20-25 mountaineers, with a maximum of four per country. Those taking part will need to bring their own equipment, although same material will be available to rent. A cost of 300 per participant covers accommodation, food and guides. Social events will also be organised, giving participants the opportunity to share and learn about each others cultures. As part of the UIAA Global Youth Summit, the event is being held for the second time. Twenty-one people from seven countries took part last year, and got to know the Slovenian Alps and made new friends from around Europe. For more information see the invitation and registration form. The deadline for applications is January 20, or January 10 for applicants needing a visa.

Teenage boy summits Ama Dablam for charity
A 16-year-old British teenager, Calum McIntyre, has climbed Ama Dablam (6,812m) in the Himalayas to raise money for a cancer fund. The achievement on October 25 by Calum - possibly the youngest person ever to accomplish the feat on the technically challenging mountain - was commended by the president of the UIAA Medical Commission, Buddha Basnyat, due to the ascents human and medical aspects. Calum was attempting to raise 5,000 for the Teenage Cancer Trust. My sister, Esme, was diagnosed with a brain tumour in November 2006 and has spent a lot of time in the Royal Hospital for Sick Children in Edinburgh, Calum said. She continues to make vast progress and gets a lot of support from The Teenage Cancer Trust. Another motivation for me is because my father was also treated for cancer in 2008. He had his voice box removed in January 2009. His father, Dave Morris, was part of the expedition. Even though he did not go for the summit, he did climb above 6,000m on Lobuche East peak. He is believed to be the first person to climb to that height after undergoing a laryngectomy operation. Dave is director of Ramblers Scotland and was for many years a member of the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission, and its president for eight years. (Dave Morris, left, Calum Macintyre, right, in Kathmandu after ascent)

Mountaineering Commission looks to partnerships for India
The UIAA Mountaineering Commission is holding its annual meeting from November 11 to 13 in New Delhi, together with the Petzl Foundation and the Indian Mountaineering Federation. According to commission president, Pierre Humblet, the hot spot of the meeting will be determining the needs and opportunities for a common work in India between the three participating parties. The commission covers a diverse range of issues important to climbers, including ethics, law and training standards. Humblet also says commission members will discuss a reorganisation of the Training Standard Working Group. This, he said, is in order to strengthen our organisation and make it able to assure answers to the numerous requests for applications. In general, the commission will talk about ways to guarantee the practical progress and implementation of projects presented at the Management Committee meeting in Porto, Portugal in October. Also at the meeting, the Indian Mountaineering Federation will present insights into the history of the organisation as well as the structure of mountaineering teaching in the country, and the federations projects and needs. The Petzl Foundation, which supports non-profit organisations in the areas of safety, the environment and research, will provide information on its efforts in Nepal and possible work in India.

MedCom to discuss Everest deaths, mountain medicine
The UIAA Medical Commission will tackle an array of topics at its meeting in Nepal from November 15 to 17. The talks will range from a review of deaths on Everest climbs to a discussion of care for altitude sickness. The commission, a panel of doctors from around the globe who specialise in mountain medicine, participates in research on and promotes education about health-related issues in mountaineering. Dr. Buddha Basnyat, president of the UIAA Medical Commission, says a number of the discussions will focus on getting word out on commission data and programmes that can ultimately help keep climbers safe. This is certainly the aim of the review of Mt. Everest deaths, Basnyat said. He hopes, that people are aware and use preventive measures based on the lessons learned. In addition to Everest, the commission will address care for people working at high altitude locales, safer routes on Mt. Kilimanjaro and deaths among pilgrims to high altitude religious sites. The commission will also focus on its programmes that provide services to mountaineers: the consensus papers on medical topics available on the UIAA website and the UIAAs Diploma in Mountain Medicine courses. The doctors will work on clarifying some consensus papers and talk about promoting all of them. The papers provide information on topics ranging from water disinfection to safety for children at high altitude. For the Diploma in Mountain Medicine courses, the UIAA collaborates with other organisations to provide doctors three different levels of training to teach them about medicine in the mountains. So far, six universities offer the courses. The UIAA Medical Commission hopes to work on further awareness of the programme. (Image couresy of Nelson Chenkin)

Youth develop more than mountaineering skills
Global Youth Summit events were held throughout Europe, as well as in Africa and Asia in 2009. They brought together young mountaineers from an array of cultural backgrounds. Excellent attendance, along with a wide range of activities on offer, illustrated the success and strength of these events. Global Youth Summit events aim to develop participants climbing and mountaineering skills, but there is also a focus on cultural learning and the environment. The events give young mountaineers an opportunity to visit various regions of the world, develop skills, make friends and share unique experiences. Some of the 2009 highlights included a youth climbing and hiking camp in Romania. While there, participants from Greece, South Korea, Italy and Romania explored the Bicaz Gorges National Park. They spent the week climbing on Jurassic limestone, hiking in perfect weather and visiting monasteries and Transylvania. The organisers also took their environmental responsibility seriously and organised some site cleaning in the mountain resort of Lacu Rosu. The Climbing Federation of Russia oversaw a variety of climbing and mountaineering activities in south Russia (Guamka) and the western Caucasus (Mount Fisht). The events included a school for beginners, bouldering and climbing competitions, developing a new climbing area in Guamka and ascending Mount Fisht. In South Africa, a group trekked in the Central Borg region of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Youth from the United Kingdom, France, Spain, Italy and South Africa went back to basics with a tent camp and limited resources. Despite changeable weather, the group managed some adventurous trekking and bouldering. There was a focus on experiencing new cultures and exploring rock art history during the event, but the biggest accomplishments were improving mountaineering techniques and making new friends from around the world. Bad weather stopped a group from reaching the summit of Mt. Kazbek in Georgia. Participants from Ukraine, Sweden, Norway, Tajikistan, Latvia and Iran spent two days hiking to the Meteo Station at 3600m. Here, they waited a further five days for an opportunity that never came to summit the mountain. Fereidoun Forghani, from Iran, believes they made up for the disappointment by building friendships and joking around. He pointed out that although they did not reach their goal, they took the opportunity to visit many places in Georgia, and thinks it's totally a mistake to travel to countries for climbing, without seeing anything else. Mountains are good but not enough! Global Youth Summit events aim to promote cooperation between countries and highlight the protection of the environment. They are organised by Member Federations of the UIAA, which provides guidelines and recommendations. If you are interested in organising a Global Youth Summit event go here. For past events see the GYS Calendar. Events for 2010 will be posted as soon as information is available.

Japanese climbers denied access to Bugyai Kangri in Tibet
A Japanese climbing team says it was turned away by locals from attempting a first ascent of Bugyai Kangri (6,328m) despite having received official permission from the Chinese authorities. The climbers, through the UIAA, want to raise awareness of permit issues in the sensitive border area in Tibet for other alpinists considering visiting the region. According to Takao Ohe, lead climber of the five-member group from Tohoku University Alpine Club, the team had received formal approval for the July attempt from four official bodies and the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CMTA), but were refused access to the mountain by local police in the town SokXian. Perspective of SokXian and the tributary of Nu-Jiang, where the local police stopped the team. (image: T.Aihara, July 25, 2009) The local people objected to the climb because, as Ohe explained, they claimed the mountain was a holy one and had concerns about foreigners. Don Changshen, former office director of CTMA, and Zhang Shaohong, Vice President of Sichuan Earth Expedition Inc, had helped them to arrange the logistics for the expedition in Tibet. They had organised local transport, accommodation and porters, as well as obtaining the permits, before leaving Japan. Upon arrival in Tibet, the group completed all registration formalities for the Nakchu District, without problems, and travelled to SokXian by car and foot. It was only when they arrived in the village that they realised there were objections to their summit attempt. After being refused access, the climbers were not allowed to continue further in the region, or even take pictures of the area. Reluctantly, the group returned to Nakchu to try to resolve the issue there but were unsuccessful. The team met with the CTMA who apologised for not knowing that the locals considered the mountain holy. The group returned to Japan where they continued to investigate the decision and claim back their expenses. A full report from the group can be found here. Bugyai Kangri, 6,328m: located in the middle of Nakchu and Qamdo along the Sichuan-Tibet North Highway (Chuanzang Beilu). It belongs to the north end of Taniantaweng, Hengduan Shan in Nu Jiang (the Salween) basin, an independent plateau ranging 40km east to west, 20km north to south with no sharp peaks and massive presence.

Extreme caution advised for anchors in tropical, marine areas
Disturbed by recent accidents caused by fixed anchors that failed, the UIAA is warning climbers to be extremely vigiliant in checking for corrosion on anchors in tropical, marine environments. Early results from a study prompted by the accidents are startling. Among fixed anchors in tropical, marine locales examined for far, 10 to 20 percent would fail with a force of 1 to 5 KN applied. The UIAA standard for fixed anchors is a minimum of 22 KN (1 kN is the weight of a mass of 100 kg). In addition, while some weakened fixed anchors had visible cracks, others had no cracks and appeared only somewhat corroded. Some of these seemingly less compromised anchors also broke with 1 to 5 KN of force. Overall, some fixed anchors broke bearing only the weight of a climber. And all examined were stainless steel, which meets the UIAA safety standard and has a reputation of holding up well against corrosion. The corrosion in this particular locale appears to be accelerated by the proximity of the sea and year-round warm, wet weather. The UIAA Safety Commission, in cooperation with Petzl, launched the study earlier this year. Jean-Franck Charlet, president of the commission, says the UIAA wanted to alert climbers about the danger as soon as possible. Dominican Republic Once the study is complete, he added, the Safety Commission will start talking about solutions. The final study will be posted on the UIAA Web site. Charlet said an incident in the Dominican Republic last winter led to the study. A fixed anchor on a route failed with the weight of just one climber, who fell to the ground and was injured. Petzl sent a representative to the area, who discovered many anchors affected by corrosion. Its difficult to know worldwide how widespread this problem is, Charlet said. It is impossible to check all the routes and every place is different: distance from the sea, wind direction, exposure to the sun. In the meantime, the UIAA advises climbers to abide by the following: Before climbing, talk to local climbers and with local people who equipped the routes about the quality of the anchors in place. Find out if a climbing area is regularly re-equipped. Experience to date shows that if anchors are less than three years old, they are less likely to be weakened. Look for tracks of rust on anchors. If you see such marks, do not load the anchor and stop the climb, as it is just these sorts of anchors that have been dangerous in the study. Alert locals so they can deal with the situation. You can also change the weakened anchor. As a precautionary principle, the UIAA highly advises climbers to not climb on routes in tropical, marine environments that show rust, or for which you dont know who maintains the routes or when the equipment was put in place. Even with positive knowledge about the climbing routes, know that you ultimately must verify for yourself the quality of the anchors in place. Read full Safety Commission report.

New Mountain Ethics Declaration
Share this page | The UIAA General Assembly on October 10 approved a code to serve as a beacon of mountaineering values, spelling out ethics of sportsmanship, respect for cultures and care for the environment. The assembly named the document the UIAA Mountain Ethics Declaration. The governing body met for its annual gathering from October 8 to 11 in Porto, Portugal. Doug Scott, the famed British mountaineer who has achieved the seven summits, worked diligently on the document. He hopes it will guide alpinists well. The Mountain Ethics Declaration, the updated statement on best practices in mountaineering, is very timely, Scott said, especially to help those climbers in areas where there is no strong consensus of opinion as to the best way forward. The declaration addresses mountaineering issues such as the responsibility to assist others in need, the factual reporting of ascents and the use of supplementary oxygen in high altitude climbs. The intent, say mountaineers involved in the process, is to create a document that reflects the sports high ideals and evolves with changing times. We are living in times of rapid change, not least the advance of commercialism into many areas of human activity and pressures on the mountain environment from developments of many kinds, UIAA Management Committee member John Nankervis said. It is important therefore to impart to new generations of mountaineers the inspiration and values of past mountaineers Indeed principles and standards might change over time but an awareness of the traditional values of the sport is needed, now more than ever. Nankervis is a New Zealand mountaineer has been a key player in working on the declaration. He shall continue involvement with the polishing of the document. The declaration has a rich history. It builds upon work of American climbers and the UIAA Mountaineering Commission called the Mountain Code. That code was updated and approved at an international meeting of leading climbers in Innsbruck, Austria in 2002. The resulting document from that gathering was called the Tyrol Declaration. The UIAA Mountain Ethics Declaration, mountaineers at the General Assembly meeting said, is intended as a living document. The organisation expects to make continuous improvements. The Mountain Ethics Declaration will now go back for editing and inclusion of amendments agreed upon by the General Assembly. The final version will be released and published on the United Nations International Mountain Day, on December 11, 2009. This years annual UIAA General Assembly meeting was hosted by the Portuguese Alpine Club.

UIAA General Assembly successfully concluded in Porto, Portugal
The UIAA General Assembly on Saturday approved a code to serve as a beacon of mountaineering values, spelling out ethics of sportsmanship, respect for cultures and care for the environment. The assembly named the document the UIAA Mountain Ethics Declaration. The governing body met for its annual gathering October 8-11 in Porto, Portugal. Doug Scott, the famed British mountaineer who achieved the seven summits, worked diligently on the document. He hopes it will guide alpinists well. The Mountain Ethics Declaration, the updated statement on best practices in mountaineering, is very timely, Scott said, especially to help those climbers in areas where there is no strong consensus of opinion as to the best way forward. The declaration addresses mountaineering issues such as the responsibility to assist others in need, the factual reporting of ascents and the use of supplementary oxygen in high altitude climbs. It also has a rich history. The document builds upon work of American climbers and the UIAA Mountaineering Commission, called the Mountain Code. That code was updated and approved at an international meeting of leading climbers in Innsbruck, Austria in 2002. The resulting document from that gathering was called the Tyrol Declaration. The UIAA Mountain Ethics Declaration, mountaineers at the General Assembly meeting said, is intended as a living document. The organisation expects to make continuous improvements. In addition to Scott, accomplished mountaineer John Nankervis of the New Zealand Alpine Club has been a key player in working on the declaration. He shall continue involvement with the polishing of the document. The Mountain Ethics Declaration will now go back for editing and inclusion of amendments agreed upon by the General Assembly. The final version will be released and published on the United Nations International Mountain Day, on December 11, 2009. Budget The General Assembly at its meeting Saturday also approved the UIAAs 2010 budget.This coming years budget is designed to finance a revenue-generating strategy for the organisation. This strategy, in turn, is expected to allow the UIAA to expand its services to member federations and the mountaineering community. The General Assembly also considered ideas for more public education about mountain cultures. Possibilities focused on using the UIAAs website, including providing links on museums, film festivals and other cultural events. Another significant development during the General Assembly is the formation of the UIAA Arbitration Court. The court is a new body intended to settle internal conflicts within the UIAA. Moreover, the courts establishment is part of the professionalisation of the organisation. The General Assembly elected Bettina Geisseler of Switzerland SAC to be president of the new court, as well as two other court members, Robbert Leopold, of the Netherlands NKBV, and Jordi Pons Sanjines, of Spains FEDME. The General Assembly also agreed to welcome two new alpine associations to the UIAA. The Dominican Republic (Asociacin Dominicana de Escalada y Montaismo) and the Mongolian Mountaineering and Climbing Federation are the new members. David Jones was elected as the new representative from Africa to the UIAA Management Committee. He belongs to the Mountain Club of South Africa. This years annual UIAA General Assembly meeting was hosted by the Portuguese Alpine Club.

Supplemental oxygen to be taken off prohibited list
The use of supplemental oxygen will be removed from the WADA (World Anti-Doping Agency) list of prohibited methods as of January 1, 2010. It was also made known at a high-level meeting in Madrid in mid-September that the UIAA is fully compliant with WADA rules. The draft of WADAs 2010 Prohibited List was discussed at the meeting of CAHAMA, the Ad hoc European Committee for the World Anti-Doping Agency. The WADA Executive approved the list at a meeting on September 19. According to the 2010 Prohibited List draft, supplemental oxygen is excluded from the banned means of artificially enhancing the uptake, transport or delivery of oxygen.... Efforts by the UIAA and its Anti-Doping Commission to combat abuse have also been recognised by WADA. The UIAA is one of 24 International Federations that is equally compliant with WADA rules as well as Out of Competition Testing regulations. From the beginning of 2009 the UIAA has organised doping controls at every Ice Climbing competition, as well as Out of Competition Testing for the first time. All tests have been doping negative, said Nenad Dikic, president of the UIAA Anti-Doping Commission. The UIAA is also making good progress implementing the Anti-Doping Administration and Management System (ADAMS). ADAMS is a mechanism designed by WADA to help stakeholders implement the anti-doping code. ADAMS has four primary functions addressing the key activities of anti-doping operations: Athlete Whereabouts, Information Clearing House, Doping Control Platform and TUE Management. In 2010 the UIAA Anti-doping Commission will start with an education programme and begin scientific research, Dikic said. Franoise Dagouret of SportAccord, the agency representing International Federations, says the UIAA is well advanced with ADAMS. Dagouret is responsible for a new SportAccord service assisting members to become compliant with the code. WADA CAHAMA SportAccord

Safety standard for braking devices published
The UIAASafety Commission has published the first-ever safety standard for braking devices. It lays out performance parameters and testing procedures for belaying and abseiling devices. The purpose of the new standard is to give climbers and mountaineers confidence that these critical pieces of gear meet the UIAAs strict safety criteria. Manufacturers meeting the standard can now apply for the new label, and if certified, can display it on rope braking devices from September 30, 2009. The tests foreseen by the standard are simple, but it took a lot of time to reach agreement on them, since their results are very dependent on the characteristics of the rope used, said Carlo Zanantoni, Safety Commission member. The important point is that they provide a good production quality control. The standard deals with four kinds of braking devices: manual, locking-assisted, abseiling devices and abseiling devices with a panic function. It lays out how to conduct static strength tests to assess stress on both the rope and the braking device. It also uses dynamic loads on locking-assisted equipment to look at how much the rope slips through the device in arresting a fall and if the rope or braking apparatus suffers damage in the process. The Safety Commission and braking device manufacturers have been working on the standard for more than ten years. The UIAA Safety Commission works to minimise accidents in mountaineering and climbing by developing and revising technical safety standards for equipment. It also offers guidelines for individuals on how to maintain equipment and avoid accidents. Jean-Franck Charlet, Safety Commission president, calls the UIAA Safety Label the worldwide reference for mountaineering and climbing safety equipment. More than 50 manufacturers worldwide, representing 1,600 products, have been approved to use a UIAA Safety Label. Download the new standard: Mountaineering and Climbing Equipment - Braking Devices (UIAA 129)

Ethics, huts and Ice Climbing high on GA agenda
Key themes such as a global agreement on ethics and best practices, a new initiative on mountain huts and the UIAAs link to the Olympic Movement are expected to generate debate at the UIAA General Assembly (GA) in Porto, Portugal on October 10. As UIAA Secretary General, Nico de Jong, points out, the code is of such prominence it has been made the theme of the 2009 GA. (see draft code) It's not a law, but will hopefully give guidance to our federations in dealing with all sorts of ethical questions, such as our attitude towards the use of oxygen during ascents or the extent a climber can ignore other mountaineers' problems in his struggle to achieve his own goals, de Jong explained. A contentious issue is likely to be the different approaches Member Federations take on the use of bolts on rock routes. The GA will seek to find a compromise. The meeting will also hear annual reports from the UIAA commissions (Safety, Access, Medical, Youth, Mountain Protection, Ice Climbing, Mountaineering), elect a new Delegate from the African continent to the UIAA Management Committee, and discuss new initiatives. Among these is an idea to begin a joint-action mountain hut programme, to work on the common interests mountaineers and federations have in the correct establishment of buildings. Also to be discussed is the reciprocal rights at huts for members of UIAA-affiliated clubs. Included on the GA agenda will be a report from a working group on expedition climbing. The UIAA must decide on how to manage tasks related to expeditions since the Expedition Commission was abolished earlier this year, de Jong explained. Finally, the UIAA firmly believes the mountaineering community contributes to the Olympic Movement, and benefits from it, but mountaineers are divided on the extent of these benefits. This issue is expected to be debated in connection with the UIAAs competition sport, Ice Climbing. Go to the UIAA Members Area to see the full agenda and programme of the 2009 UIAA General Assembly.

Italian Alpine Club pays tribute to Riccardo Cassin
Riccardo Cassin, one of the greatest mountaineers of the 20th century, died on August 6 at age 100. The Italian climber started building a reputation as an accomplished alpinist in the 1930s, scaling peaks in the Alps with relatively crude equipment by todays standard. His career, spanning more than six decades, is that of legend. He made roughly 2,500 climbs, more than 100 of them first ascents. Some of those are still considered classic routes. Most famously, he tackled in 1938 with a group from his hometown of Leco the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc Massif, considered the most difficult challenge in the Alps. Decades later he led a five-man team on a first ascent of the south wall of Mount McKinley in Alaska. The route is now called Cassin Ridge. And as he aged, he hardly slowed. At 85, he scaled Luna Nascente in Val di Mello, Itlay. Mountaineer Giovanni Rossi, who served three terms as president of Club Alpino Italianos elite group of climbers, Club Alpino Accademico, recently composed a eulogy remembering his good friend. Its a glimpse into understanding Cassins style and tenacity in the mountains. The UIAA is publishing Rossis eulogy in full, to commemorate Cassin and his accomplishments. Eulogy for Riccardo Cassin In writing about Riccardo Cassin for mountaineers of more recent generations one runs the risk of indulging in repetition or lavish rhetoric. But many of them have vague notions about the mountaineering of the Cassin era and may be inclined to underestimate it. This thought inspired Georges Livanos to choose as the subtitle for his biography of Cassin (1983) Il tait une fois le sixime degr as if it had been a fabulous, today almost incredible age. To avoid any temptation of rhetoric I shall confine myself mainly to technical evaluations, and begin by quoting Giusto Gervasutti. When he had been anticipated by Cassins party on the northern buttress of the Walker Spur (1938), he commented: For Cassin climbing is the means to the end, he aims at the end point, he has very clear ideas, for him the goal is the enterprise He is the man who, once the purpose has been fixed, does not go back There are more brilliant climbers, but his list of ascents does not bear comparison. Not only the great ascents of Cassin, but even the first repeat ascents became famous.They occurred during the first years after the second World War (1945-1949): Gaston Rbuffat at the Walker Spur and Pizzo Badile, Guglielmo Del Vecchio at the Piccolissima di Lavaredo (the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo had been repeated immediately after the first ascent), Gino Sold at the Torre Trieste, Georges Livanos at the Aiguille de Leschaux, were all astonished by the level of difficulty as well as by the purity of style of the ascents. On the Badile northeast face, Rbuffat was impressed by the power of intuition of Cassin in finding the line of least resistance, and even more by his strength of mind in ignoring, in spite of a terrible storm, an easier way out and traversing with greater difficulty to a direct exit to the summit. Cassin was a leader in the Italian mountaineering environment, and particularly so in the locality of his town, Lecco. The success of the Italian expedition to Gasherbrum IV was due to his leadership and to the ability of his best disciple Carlo Mauri, who reached the summit with Walter Bonatti (1958). Cassin was also the leader of the victorious expeditions of the Ragni di Lecco to the McKinley south ridge (1961) and Jirishanca west face (1969) (in both cases all members reached the summit!). The best way of remembering Riccardo Cassin is by the last lines of his biography by Livanos: As long as mountaineers will exist, they will always evoke the face of the invincible conqueror who has never gone back, who has always looked ahead, with eyes which could challenge all the strength of nature, or reflect all the goodness of man, a glance to make a hole in the stones, or as sweet and astonished as the eyes of a child. Giovanni Rossi

Mountaineering and culture at heart of youth event in South Africa
The Global Youth Summit event took place in South Africa's Dragon Mountains betweenJuly 11 and 19.Organised by the Mountain Club of South Africa, the event was a gathering for young mountaineers to come together and trek in the Central Berg region of the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site. Taking part were 20 participants from the United Kingdom, France, Spain, Italy and South Africa. Based in the Giants Castle Reserve, the participants were in an excellent location to explore the surrounding area. The reserve is home to the some fantastic flora and fauna, including bearded vultures and some great terrain for climbing. The groups accommodation was a tent camp with only minimum facilities available to participants. The meet administrator, Jenny Paterson, had wondered how they would cope with it. But, as she said, cope they did and quite honestly, I think they enjoyed it! The first day was spent settling in and getting to know each other. They had the opportunity to explore local caves, view historical rock art and learn about the native San people. Over the next five days, the group had aimed to climb to the Langalibalela Pass, traverse north and descend through the Bannerman Passes. Unpredictable and changeable weather on the mountains meant they had to adapt their plans and abandon some routes for safety reasons. Despite this, the group managed some adventurous trekking and exploring in the region. Climb chimney The final day saw the group climb Chimney Pot and do some bouldering, before packing their bags and preparing for an early departure. While the events main focus was on mountaineering, participants also experienced new cultures, rock art history and developed an appreciation for the natural environment. Most of all they accomplished the aim of bringing together young people from around the world, improving mountaineering techniques and making new friends. Jenny Paterson also commented on How wonderfully this group bonded. A full report of the event can be found on theMountain Club of South Africa website. Or check out this picture gallery. The Global Youth Summit (GYS) is the name for UIAA Youth Events that promote peace and cooperation between countries and the protection of the environment. They centre on certain themes, including crag development, local ethics and traditions, improving individual performance and environmental awareness. More information on GYS events is available here.